Ammonia in hair dyes

In the world of hair color and beauty care, we are often faced with the challenge of choosing the right products that are not only aesthetically pleasing, but also safe and healthy. A common question that reaches our team concerns the use of ammonia in hair dyes. Many of our customers are curious as to whether we offer ammonia-free alternatives.

Although we do not currently carry ammonia-free options, we recognize the importance of this issue and want to provide our customers with the best information possible. Therefore, this article is dedicated to understanding ammonia in hair color:

• What is it,
• why is it used and
• What effects can it have on hair, scalp and the environment?

It is important to emphasize that we are not giving medical advice in this article. Our aim is to provide a sound understanding of ammonia in hair color so that our customers can make informed decisions about the products they choose to use.

In the following sections, we will explain the chemical basis of ammonia, discuss its role in hair coloring, address health and environmental aspects and present alternatives.

What is ammonia?

Ammonia is a chemical compound consisting of nitrogen and hydrogen and has the formula NH3. It is a colorless gas with a characteristic pungent odor that is used in many industrial and commercial processes, including the hair dye industry.

On a molecular level, ammonia is a simple compound, but its chemical properties make it a versatile ingredient in various products. In aqueous solution, ammonia acts as a base, which means that it has the ability to neutralize acids. This property makes it useful in many cleaning products and also in certain industrial applications.

In agriculture, ammonia is used as a direct nitrogen fertilizer, as nitrogen is an essential element for plant growth. In industry, it is used in the production of plastics, explosives and other chemicals.

The use of ammonia in hair dyes has long been established, but it has also raised concerns about health and safety. These concerns often relate to the potential effects of ammonia vapors on the respiratory tract as well as possible skin irritation.

Why is ammonia used in hair dyes?

Understanding why ammonia is used in hair color helps to understand the decisions behind product formulations. Ammonia plays a key role in the coloring process that goes beyond its chemical properties.

Influence on the color results

Ammonia is known to open the cuticle, the outer layer of the hair. The cuticle consists of overlapping scales that protect the inner hair. When the cuticle is opened, the color molecules can penetrate deeper into the hair and form a permanent bond. This leads to more intense and longer-lasting color results compared to ammonia-free products.

Interaction with other ingredients

Ammonia acts as a catalyst in the dyeing process by accelerating the reaction between the color molecules and the developer, an oxidizing agent. This reaction is crucial for the development of the color in the hair. By raising the pH of the hair, ammonia creates an environment in which the color pigments can fully develop, resulting in more vibrant and richer shades.

Traditional use and current developments

The use of ammonia in hair dyes has been common for decades because it is effective. However, nowadays there is a growing demand for milder and more environmentally friendly alternatives. This has led to the development of ammonia-free hair dyes based on other alkalis to achieve similar results, although these alternatives are often considered less effective in terms of color intensity and durability.

Possible effects of ammonia

While ammonia plays an important functional role in hair color, it is essential to understand the potential effects of its use. These effects can be both short and long term, affecting the hair, scalp and in some cases the health of the user.

Short-term effects on hair and scalp

The immediate effects of ammonia on the hair and scalp are mainly due to its alkaline and opening properties. When applying hair color containing ammonia, the following reactions may occur:

• Irritation of the scalp: For sensitive individuals, ammonia can cause itching, redness or a burning sensation on the scalp. Recommendation: If there are signs of irritation, the use of soothing scalp treatments containing ingredients such as aloe vera or chamomile can be helpful. These natural ingredients are known for their soothing properties.
• Changes to the hair structure: By opening the cuticle, ammonia can make the hair more porous, which can lead to dryness and brittleness. Recommendation: To counteract dryness and brittleness, intensive hair treatments and conditioners with moisturizing ingredients such as keratin, argan oil or panthenol are recommended. These products help to lock moisture into the hair and strengthen the hair structure.
• Odor sensitivity: The characteristic smell of ammonia can cause discomfort in some people.

Long-term considerations

Long-term effects of ammonia, especially with regular use, may include the following:

• Hair damage: Frequent use of products containing ammonia can lead to a progressive deterioration in hair quality. Recommendation: To prevent and treat hair damage, regular use of deep conditioning treatments and protein masks(Newsha Rescue Treatment. You can also find more information on this in our article on the various hair care treatments). These products help to repair the hair from the inside and strengthen its resilience. In addition, special techniques such as the balayage coloring method can help to reduce the frequency of coloring. Here too, we would like to refer you to our article on balayage and its effects on hair condition.
• Effects on the scalp: Long-term exposure to ammonia can lead to a change in the pH value of the scalp and a disturbed skin barrier. Recommendation: For long-term effects on the scalp, the use of pH-balancing shampoos and scalp serums may be useful. Products that aim to restore the natural balance of the scalp and strengthen its barrier function are particularly beneficial in this case.

It is important to emphasize that these effects can vary individually and do not occur for every user. They are also highly dependent on the concentration of ammonia in the products and the frequency of use.

Ammonia-free alternatives

The search for gentler hair dyes has led to the development of ammonia-free alternatives. These products offer advantages, but also come with their own considerations. This much in advance: "gentle" permanent coloring will probably not exist in the future. Every product, even plant-based ones, are ultimately chemical compounds that ensure that the color pigments can penetrate the hair, sometimes better, sometimes worse. In order for them to do this, the structure of the hair must be changed, at least temporarily.

Common alternatives

Ammonia-free hair dyes use other alkaline substances, such as ethanolamine or MEA (monoethanolamine) and sometimes herbal ingredients. They are known for less pungent odors and a milder effect on the scalp.

Comparison of the mode of action and results

These products have differences in color intensity, durability and gray coverage. They may have a different consistency, which affects application and are usually more expensive. The color selection may be more limited and customization may require more effort. Depending on the alternative substances, experimentation may also be required to achieve the desired result, as the effects can have more significant side effects due to the agents used in individual hair care.

Health considerations

Although ammonia-free hair dyes are considered milder alternatives, they are not free of health risks:

• Less researched chemicals: Some substitutes for ammonia are less thoroughly researched, raising questions about long-term effects.
• Skin irritation and allergies: Despite their milder formulation, they can still cause irritation or allergic reactions.
• Concentration of other chemicals: To achieve similar results as with ammonia, the concentration of other chemicals may be increased, which increases the risk of side effects.
• Unknown long-term effects: Many of these products are relatively new, which is why long-term studies are lacking.
• Individual sensitivity: Tolerance varies from person to person, regardless of whether the product is advertised as "gentle" or "natural".
• Longer application: Ammonia only remains on the scalp for as long as necessary and evaporates quickly. In contrast, alternatives remain in the hair throughout the entire coloring process.

According to studies (see further sources), the hair structure can even be put under greater strain as a result.

In summary, it must be said that you have to be careful with promises such as "gentle" alternatives to ammonia and that marketing aspects are not always but often behind them. In the end, it is always a chemical process that has both advantages and disadvantages. This also applies to plant-based alternatives.

Health aspects of ammonia

The use of hair dyes, whether with or without ammonia, raises various health considerations. It is important to be aware of these and take appropriate precautions to minimize the risk of possible negative effects.

General considerations

• Skin compatibility: Both ammonia-based and ammonia-free hair dyes can cause skin irritation. A patch test before application is advisable to rule out allergic reactions.
• Respiratory irritation: For products with strong odours, such as paints containing ammonia, applications should be carried out in well-ventilated areas to minimize the inhalation of fumes. Hairdressing salons in particular have strict regulations regarding ventilation and ceiling height to minimize exposure.
• Long-term effects: Regular use of hair dyes could have long-term effects on the hair and scalp, such as dryness or damage to the hair structure.

Gentler variants such as balayage and touch-ups with glossings can be used to reduce the frequency of hair coloring. We have written a separate article on the subject of balayage and its effects on hair condition.

Recommendations for safe use

• Follow the instructions for use: It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions exactly, especially with regard to the application time and the amount of product. It is therefore always advisable to have your hair dyed by a hairdresser.
• Take protective measures: Wearing gloves and avoiding skin contact with the color can prevent skin irritation. Hairdressers are also specially trained to keep possible skin contact as low as possible.
• After colouring: Using nourishing and moisturizing hair products after colouring can help to nourish and protect the hair. Ask your hairdresser. They will be happy to help you and recommend suitable products.

Summary

This article does not constitute medical advice. If you have any concerns or known allergies, it is advisable to consult a dermatologist or other medical professional before tinting.

Choosing the right hair color, with or without ammonia, depends on a variety of factors - from individual hair characteristics to personal preferences and health considerations. We have looked at the role of ammonia in hair color, its potential effects and the pros and cons of ammonia-free alternatives.

Summary of the key points

• Ammonia in hair dyes is valued for its ability to achieve intense and long-lasting color results, but can also cause skin and respiratory irritation.
• Ammonia-free alternatives offer milder options, but are not free from health considerations and can vary greatly in terms of color intensity and durability.
• Health aspects are important for both ammonia-containing and ammonia-free products, as the alternatives also contain substances that set chemical processes in motion. Precautionary measures, technical expertise and careful product selection are crucial.

Concluding thoughts

It is important to remember that every client is unique and has individual needs and sensitivities. We recommend consulting a professional if you have any uncertainties or specific concerns in order to make the best choice for hair color and care.

Hair coloring technology is constantly evolving, and it is our goal to provide our customers with the most up-to-date and relevant information so they can make informed decisions. Ultimately, it's about choosing the best for the health and beauty of the hair while being aware of the potential risks.

Sources and further reading

Comparison of damage to human hair fibers caused by monoethanolamine- and ammonia-based hair colorants - PubMed (nih.gov)

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